The progress that your hand shy dog makes will seem erratic. The progress that is made one day may not be evident the next day. Expect this and persist.

The progress that you may not see on a daily basis will be evident over the weeks. The following section will present a method that deliberately assumes that progress is in a steady, straight forward manner. However, know that the learning curve is not that predictable and that each dog progresses differently. It will be up to you to adjust the following suggestions to your dog’s unique progress.

As a quick review, your goal has been to have the dog approach your left hand and take a small treat from the flat palm. Once this is a consistent and familiar task for your hand shy dog, the next step is to ask the dog to work a little harder for the treat. Again, the emphasis is on small incremental differences so that your dog can adjust to the changes. The suggestions from the previous article ( Remediation for the Hand Shy Dog: Part 1 ) are still valid. Now the change that you will make is very subtle at first.

Previously, the treat in your left hand was placed on the flat of your palm. Now, it will be moved slightly to the space between your index finger and your middle finger. There is a reason for this specific location - and the reason is that eventually you want to hold the treat between your index and middle finger. However, that may be days away. Your dog will notice the slight change in the location of the treat in your hand and some progress may be lost. Remember - patience; the dog will determine the rate of progress. The dog will let you know when it is comfortable again.

When the dog is taking the treat again, the next step can be taken. The presentation of your hand has been flat, with the palm up. Now, slightly tilt the hand - not much, just slightly. The food can be wedged partially between your index and middle finger to prevent it from falling to the floor. The food is still highly visible. The hand is tilted only a few degrees from a flat presentation. Allow the dog to adjust to this new ’sight picture’. That may take days. Remember, the dog is afraid of the hand and even the slightest change will be viewed with great suspicion. Please give the dog a chance to be bold. The dog will think it through and progress at its own rate.

As you progress, the dog will take food from your hand, even when your hand is presented at a slight angle. The reason for tilting the hand is that eventually you want to present the hand with the palm down. The reasons for this are many. The usual approach of the hand that a dog will see is with the palm down. The palm down (with a piece of treat wedged between the fingers) allows you to create a situation for the dog to work even harder for the treat. It is a huge progress for the dog.

The situation that you want to create is this:

• food between the fingers.
• presentation of the hand with the palm down.
• and the hand four to six inches off the floor/ground.

With your hand four to six inches off the floor and with the palm down presentation, the dog will have to initiate hand contact in order to reach the food. The dog has to do this. There is no other way for the dog to reach the food. You have been working for weeks to reach this point.

The dog knows that there is food in your hand. Now, the dog must initiate the ‘hand to muzzle’ contact in order to reach its treat. And, after the dog does that, in a low whisper, please tell the dog that you recognize what a brave soul it is - and perhaps a word of ‘thanks’ to the dog for having such great trust in you.

Catherine Forsythe
Director of Operations
FlyingHamster: http://flyinghamster.com/