Save Gas and Stick It To The Oil Cartels For Free!
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It seems as though all we hear about today, at least in the “Green Community,” is fuel efficiency. We hear about the latest advances in hybrids, electric cars, ultra-efficient “city” cars, and all manner of complaints about conventional gas and diesel automobiles and trucks, and how terrible their “poor” fuel economy is for the environment.
That’s all well and good. I applaud all the efforts to recommend, encourage and produce more fuel efficient vehicles — especially since it looks as though no one is going to bother taking the issue really seriously until, to paraphrase Edward Albee, the last petroleum executive is hung with the entrails of the last energy CEO. The fact is, no one really wants to produce efficient energy until the last drop of profit is wrung from the petroleum, gas and bogus biofuel markets.
In the meantime, we poor consumers are hung up on high fuel prices, high prices for newer, more efficient cars (with a few exceptions), and all sorts of confusing promises that are worth nothing, compared to what they’re costing us by stonewalling the real — and ultimately the only — thing that will save our butts in the long run: solar energy. (See “New Biofuel Resource Overlooks Second Law Of Thermodynamics — but what’s new?“)
Anyway, here it is folks — for free, gratis, bupkis — your chance to save money and stick it to the oil and energy cartels at the same time. It will require a little work on your part. You’ll have to learn to pay attention to what you’re doing. It will cost you a little cell-phone time. But I’ll guarantee that if you read and follow these suggestions, you’ll improve your vehicle’s fuel efficiency — and drive more safely, too.
Do I think you’ll do it? Frankly — no. Do I wish you would, for all our sakes? Oh, very much. Very, very much. For my granddaughter’s sake, as well.
Here we go…
Fuel consumption is directly related to the amount of energy used by your car. Duh! You’re thinking, “I read all that environmentalist propaganda at the top of the page for this?” It’s so obvious it’s silly, but keeping it in mind is the basis of vehicle fuel economy, regardless of what you drive. The amount of energy that you force your vehicle to use determines how much fuel you burn, and that isn’t always obvious.
What is it about any vehicle that causes it to burn energy? Weight, acceleration, and drag. Increasing weight will always increase the energy needed to move the vehicle, and increasing the other two beyond a certain point will do the same. There are some other factors, like tire pressure and braking, that we’ll get to later.
Weight
We all know that it’s harder to push heavy things than light things. What isn’t as obvious is that it also takes substantially more energy to keep heavy things moving. We don’t notice this, because when we’re driving it simply means a tiny bit more pressure on the accelerator — but it adds up. Think of pushing a car. Now think of pushing it faster. Light cars are easier to push (get better mileage) than heavy ones. Get all the garbage out of the trunk, unnecessary junk out of the back seat, and so on. Dead weight is gonna cost ya.
Acceleration
Imagine you’re pushing that car again. If you push it pretty hard, it will move some. Push a little harder, and it will go a bit faster, but if you want to get it moving fast in a hurry, you have to push much harder. It takes less effort to keep it moving than it does to get it moving. Same’s true when the engine’s doing the work.
Many folks have the mistaken idea that they ought to accelerate reeeeaaall slow to save gas. Not true. BMW did extensive testing back in the ’80’s that proved conclusively that moderate acceleration uses less fuel for the speed gained than either slow or fast acceleration does. Be gentle, but not totally feather-footed. In addition to giving you better mileage, it will keep you from becoming a hood ornament on some gas-guzzler’s Hummer.
Drag
When we finish accelerating, it takes energy to keep us at a steady speed. That energy is directly related to the amount of drag on the vehicle. Drag, for practical purposes, is caused by two things: wind resistance and rolling resistance.
Wind resistance is a biggie. Doubling your speed causes four times the wind resistance. (If you must know, drag is proportional to the square of the speed.) What does this mean in normal use? It takes four times the fuel to go twice as fast!
Every vehicle has a speed at which it’s most efficient, that is, it goes the most distance in an hour for the amount of fuel burned in an hour. For most, it’s between 45 and 55 mph (72-88 kph). Go slower and your mileage will decrease slowly, reaching zero miles per gallon at a standstill. This is the worst possible mileage, because you’re burning gas and going nowhere. Speed up beyond the optimum speed range, and the mileage will also drop — precipitously! At 90 mph instead of 45, you will use 4 times the fuel to go twice the distance. Not a good trade, under most circumstances.
Rolling Resistance is mostly due to tire pressure and the vehicle’s weight. Think of pushing the car again. Would it be easier with the tires flat, or with them inflated until they are hard? Obvious, right? What’s not so obvious — again, because all we’re doing is pressing the accelerator — is that the same principle applies to underinflated tires versus those with the manufacturer’s recommended pressures.
Underinflated tires can reduce your gas mileage by up to 10%. To add injury to injury, underinflation also reduces the mileage you’ll get from the tires — by as much as 70% — and here’s the kicker: with radial tires (the kind on most passenger cars) you can’t tell if they’re low by looking at them. By the time a radial is noticeably flatter than normal, it will be about 15 p.s.i. below the recommended pressure. This will destroy the tire in a fairly short time, do the same for your mileage, and may result in a high-speed tire failure that can kill you.
Check your tire pressure at least monthly, with a good tire gauge ($8.00 at an auto parts store).
Braking
Every time you touch the brakes, you waste gas! Think about it: what do brakes do? They change speed into heat. First, you burned fuel to produce heat, and your engine and transmission changed it into speed. Now, you’re taking speed that you paid good money for, and turning it back into heat, which dissipates into the air and does no one any good. A total waste.
Now obviously we can’t go around not braking just to save gas. Or can we? We’ll always have to do some braking, but we don’t have to brake as often. We can reduce the amount of braking we need to do by:
- Planning ahead. Concentrating on our driving, and keeping enough distance between us and the guy ahead that we can simply take our foot off the gas if he slows down, rather than braking. If we brake, we won’t have to brake as hard. Not only do we save energy, we probably won’t have to accelerate as much afterward, saving yet more.
- Anticipating the need to stop. If we have half a block to go to the stop sign, it’s not necessary to maintain our speed and then jam on the brakes. Take your foot off the gas and coast to the sign. If you were also watching your speed, you’ll coast up gently to the stop sign, stop gently, and save gas. (See below.) If it was a traffic signal and you’ve planned properly (allowing for other traffic) it may turn green before you get there, saving even more gas you would have needed to accelerate.
So, here are the quick rules for driving efficiently:
- Keep your vehicle tuned up and running properly. At today’s gas prices, the additional 3-8% efficiency will add up quickly.
- Keep your tires properly inflated.
- Accelerate moderately and smoothly.
- Drive no faster than you have to.
- Avoid unnecessary braking — plan ahead.
- REMEMBER: every time you take your foot off the accelerator, you’re driving for free!
My Hyundai Elantra is EPA-rated 24 city, 33 highway. That’s almost exactly what it gets in normal driving. I can, with relative ease, stretch that to 26/39 — I’ve done it. I do it routinely. That’s an average of 13% — but 18% on the road. You can have comparable savings. It’s up to you. You can even make a game of it.




5 Comments
the oracle
October 11th, 2007
at 8:18pm
Since it has already been calculated, by the appropriate talking heads, that using electric vehicles to drive, with coal to power new power plants would be the best way to conserve and also remove greenhouse gases from the atmosphere - we should all write our Congresspersons to put a bill in front of the Prez to give HUGE subsidies to companies developing electric cars, and HUGE discounts on those cars, so that we can pollute less, cause less thermal load on the planet, and let OPEC keep its oil in the ground. The money not going overseas should quickly make up for the subsidized products.
Uber-Dude
October 11th, 2007
at 11:59pm
My wife’s 2005 Malibu LT is rated at 28 mpg city, 32 highway. We commute on uncongested Interstate for 30 miles one way every weekday at 65 mph instead of the posted 75 mph, and average 37 mpg per tank, which includes approximately 5 miles of city driving per day.
We discovered this money-saving driving habit when we travelled cross-country from Wyoming to Louisiana in 2005. Once we entered Kansas, interstate speed limit changed from our normal accustomed 75 to 65. As we slowed down, our onboard computer showed us our fuel savings, jumping from 31.5 mpg to 42 mpg (very few hills, mind you). We’ve been economy driving ever since.
Bill Webb
October 12th, 2007
at 7:00pm
The issue goes even farther than Climate Change. Assuming that the race survives the next few centuries, we will need every single source of hydrocarbons for fabrication of materials. We won’t be able to afford to burn it up. For that reason, we can’t afford coal-fired power now, either, except as absolutely necessary to tide us over to a non-hydrocarbon dependent power system.
We need to do everything we can to support solar. It is the only real renewable power, good for a couple of billion years at least (by which time we will surely have killed ourselves off, or evolved into truly sensible beings at last).
Palomar Jack
October 14th, 2007
at 3:42am
So, just how is this sticking it to Big Oil? They’re one of the ones that’ve been promoting the conservation of fuels since the ’80s and before. Where are the statements from them saying that we should ignore efficient driving habits and proper vehicle maintenance? I know they’re not darling little angels, as a matter fact, I’m under the impression that they, along with other “Energy Merchants” may be contributing to keeping the costs of solar cells and wind generators at prices so high the average “Joe” can’t afford them. But really, the title to this article is deceiving. These are things that should be done and that I’ve been doing for years, big deal, common sense, whod’ve thunk?
So, Jack — wouldn’t you say that saving gas is sticking it to big oil? And where are all the public service ads suggesting that we drive efficient cars, drive efficiently, etc. — provided by those public servants at Exxon, Shell and the rest? Furthermore, simply because you’ve been doing it for years doesn’t mean that all my readers know about it. I write for the average Joe, not experts like you.
> “the oracal - Since it has already been calculated, by the appropriate talking heads, that using electric vehicles to drive, with coal to power new power plants would be the best way to conserve and also remove greenhouse gases from the atmosphere”
The talking heads are idiots. Let’s try using our heads here. Around 1%, probably less, of the energy produced at the point of ignition of coal or gas makes it to the road in an electric car. How is that more efficient?
Public transportation runs continuously, whether there are passengers or not, how is that more efficient?
Grain based alcohol only delivers about 50% - 60% of the power and mileage of petroleum fuels and pollutes almost the same amount, per mile, and costs only 10% less. How is that more efficient?
As for green house gasses, the modern boogey man, along with the Illuminati, how do the all-knowing talking heads you so revere explain the rise in temperature of the atmosphere and/or surfaces of the other planets and satellites in the solar system. Is that the result of the evil Right Wing Conspiracy, too? Or is it just kind of ignored because it doesn’t support the agenda of those whining unendingly about global warming. All while glaciers in the Pacific Northwest grow and water pipes in the deserts of the Pacific Southwest freeze during the winter. By the way, what ever happened to the Global Cooling hysteria of the late ’70s and early ’80s? Our dumbass Nobel Prize winner Algore was a part of that debacle, too. By the way, why don’t we hear about the global warming bullcrap as much during the winter and while collectivists are “in power”? Mark my words, when the weather gets back to “normal”, just like it does every 10 - 20 years, these morons are going to run around proclaiming that they saved us all from ourselves and the evil Right Wing, and, that we should nationalize all business at once to keep it from happening again. Don’t believe me, watch and see.
Hasta…
Brandon
January 9th, 2008
at 3:34pm
Really nice article. I’m happy to see that my driving habits are up to par. I just wish my wife would listen. She’s a “full-speed to the red light” kinda girl. I always try and tell her that driving that way wears out the engine faster by the constant stop and go action and also wears out the brakes unnecessarily. “Hurry up and get to the stop sign!” I nag.
The reason I found this article, though, is that I actually just bought my first manual transmission car and I’m trying to research how to get the most efficiency out of that. Do you have any tips as far as efficiency concerns go with shifting gears? And what’s your opinion on the downshifting to stop? Etc. Etc.
Any advice is appreciated. Take care.
Sorry to take so long to answer, Brandon. I keep forgetting that this blog doesn’t automatically remind me of comments.
As to shifting: “Feel” is effective. Keep the car in a gear that keeps it from seeming to either rev too high, or labor. With most engines in the 1800 - 2400 cc range, that means about 2000 - 3000 rpm’s. Accelerate as smoothly as possible. BMW have found that moderate acceleration to cruising speed gives better mileage than either slow or fast.
Brakes are designed to dissipate energy; engines are designed to produce it.* The practice of downshifting comes from the old days when drum brakes, prone to overheating and friction loss, needed all the help they could get. Also, back in the pre-synchromesh days, it was easier to downshift through the gears than to go quickly from, say, 4th to 2nd.
However, downshifting also puts reverse loads on bearing surfaces and, done to extremes, increases friction and engine heat — read wear. Brakes are effective and cheap. Engines are less so, in both cases. Downshift only when you know which gear you’ll need, and go directly to that gear (unless you need to do so for passing, etc.) Shifting down is cool, but not the way to go if you want to get 200K out of your engine and tranny. On the other hand, who keeps cars that long these days anyway? Only us environmental geeks.
*Yes, yes…some engineer is bound to tell me that engines produce work, not energy. Go p**s up a rope, eh?