Home Repair Rip-Offs
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My brother-in-law owns and operates a construction company, which he took over from his father some 10 years ago. We were talking the other day and the subject of home repair came up. He was telling me about how con-artists take advantage of people and cited a few examples. I thought they would make a good post so here it goes:
1. Leaky Roof: A con-artist will try to convince you that water is seeping through the shingles and you should have the shingles removed and replaced. This can cost $5000 or more. Most of the time the leak is caused because the sealing around vent pipes, and chimneys has deteriorated, or the connections between roof sections have eroded. Replacing the sealant or flashing is a cheap and easy fix. Normally an asphalt roof lasts 10 - 20 years. You should replace the roof when you see curling or missing shingles or a large amount of granular material from the shingles collecting in the gutters. Don’t get talked into having the old roof removed, which can raise the replacement price by 50%, unless your building code demands it. Many towns allow a second, or even third roof to be installed as long as the framing can support the extra weight. Beware of a roofer that says you need an entire new deck, the wood beneath the shingles. This is needed in only about one out of a thousand times. Usually only a portion of the deck will need replaced, and then only if it is rotted.
2. Basement Water: If your basement is chronically wet, con-artists will attempt to convince you that they need to dig out your entire foundation and water proof it. This can cost anywhere from $5,000 to $10,000 dollars. More often, the solution is simple and costs very little. Many basement leaks are caused by overflow from clogged gutters, misrouted downspouts, unsloped land around the house and even poorly aimed sprinklers. Damp walls may be caused by humidity. To test simply place a piece of aluminum foil to the wall. If moisture shows up after a day or two on the patch it’s just condensation, start shopping for a dehumidifier. If water is still seeping in, repair cracks in the masonry with hydraulic cement and apply a quality waterproof paint.
3. Termite Problem: There are allot of myths about termites, one of the most common myth is that termites can bring down a house in as little as 6 months. Con-artists use this incorrect information to scare you into paying up to $3000 for unnecessary and shoddy work. The most common termite in the USA is the subterranean, of which there are two main kinds: Workers and Swarmers. The workers hollow out the wood, while swarmers mate and produce new colonies. They burrow through the soil until water and wood or wood-like products are located. To get into your home they usually build moist tunnels across the foundation, a clear sign of infestation. Be wary of exterminators showing you termite colonies on wood piles or fences not connected to your house: This may be a scam. You have a problem only if there is evidence of termites inside your home or close to the foundation. Bugs flying in the home during the Spring are another sign of a problem, but these may simply be flying ants. Termites have full waists and even length wings. Ants have a pinched waist and back wings shorter than the front wings.
4. Mold: Since hurricane Katrina, con-artists have been playing up fears about disease from mold in the home. They try to convince you to pay $300 - $600 on tests to identify the mold and recommend a company to remove it which they are in cahoots with. The truth is, healthy people usually don’t have anything to worry about. If your immune system is compromised, or you have asthma or allergies, it might cause issues. Other than that, mold is not dangerous. The CDC doesn’t recommend that you get the mold tested, because if it is a problem to the occupants, it should be removed no matter what kind it is. All you need to clean the mold from small areas is soap and water, followed by a mixture of one cup bleach with one gallon of water. To prevent mold growing, keep the humidity between 40 and 60 percent, promply fix leaky roofs, windows, pipes and ventilate shower, laundry and cooking areas.
5. Chimney Sweep Swindle: A chimney sweep knocks on your door and says he just fixed a neighbor’s chimney and offers you an inspection for the low price of $39.99. Once inside he finds a problem and tells you that you need a new liner for instance. Suddenly that $39.99 becomes thousands of dollars. Chimneys can indeed be dangerous and occasionally a blocked chimney causes carbon monoxide to come into the home, but not as often as chimney sweeps want you to believe. Experts recommend annual inspections to check for creosote build up and structural soundness. This costs between $100 and $250 dollars. If cleaning is required, an additional $100 - $150 should be expected. Hire only those that are certified by the Chimney Safety Institute of America. Also, lately sweeps use cameras to complete their inspection. Ask to see the video and have him explain it as you watch. If he balks, he’s scamming you.

2 Comments
C. Thomas
May 26th, 2008
at 8:04pm
Not sure about the others, but I’ve been in the roofing industry for as long as I can remember (family company). I no longer actually put the stuff on, but here’s some better tips.
A) You’re right, it’s not always necessary to replace a roof to fix a leak. In the thousands of leaks I’ve diagnosed and fixed, it’s usually around penetrations like pipes and skylights, or poor flashing where the roof meets walls. This can usually be fixed with sealants (tar), but tar is three to five year fix and it’s messy. You’re usually better off replacing the pipe flashings or metal flashings at skylights and walls.
B) It’s always better to tear off. Yes, you can lay new shingles over old, but eventually those are going to have to be taken off, and dump fees aren’t getting any cheaper. In addition, you never see a lot of those little leaks because they never get into the living area. However, they do rot the decking, which won’t hold nails for your new layer. Finally, the industry, for the most part, has gone from standard measure 12″ x 36″ shingles to metric 1 meter by .33 meter shingles. New shingles won’t nest nicely against old shingles (a ”butt and go” reroof) and will lay roughly, even if your old shingles aren’t curling yet. In addition, a second layer never lasts as long as a first, and a lot of manufacturers have additional requirements for reroofs, if they’ll guarantee their product on a layover at all.
C) A lot of time you won’t need new decking, but two things effect this. First, the price of plywood/OSB might make it cheaper just to do the whole thing than to piece in. Second, a lot of regions allowed 3/8″ plywood to be used as sheeting in the 70’s and 80’s. 3/8″ plywood is barely strong enough to take a roof, and it has a tendency to delaminate when a roof is torn off, making it at best 1/4″ plywood, and at worst simply not there. This doesn’t mean jump at the contractor that is selling a resheet. It means look for that contractor that admits that he doesn’t know and says that he’ll charge $xxx plus material for replacing sheeting in the bid. Also, ask him to update you when the shingles are torn off. 90% of the time, I was able to tell whether a resheet was needed or not simply by walking on the roof, but it’s impossible to know for sure without tearing the old shingles off, at which time it’s a little late to find a new contractor. You don’t want someone roofing over rotten sheeting any more than you want someone wasting your money.
Finally, a tip you didn’t mention. There’s been a severe case of warantee competition in the roofing industry the last twenty years. There’s not a whole lot of difference between the shingles that they’re guaranteeing for 30 years now and the ones they guaranteed for 20 years ten years ago. Shingle warantees are usually transferable once, and you have to file the paperwork to do it. When’s the last time you bought a house and were passed a shingle warantee transfer card? Unless you’re looking at upper end shingles, more than just a warantee upgrade on a normal laminate (architectural, or ”Timberline”) shingle, your shingles probably won’t outlast the guarantee. Shingle manufacturers know people move an average of every 7 years, so they know the MOST they’re likely to have to back their warantee is 14 years. And they prorate it. Don’t get caught up in warantees. Find a good contractor who uses shingles from a reputable manufacturer. Maybe even consider an upgraded warantee. The big three shingle manufacturers (Certainteed, Owens Corning, and GAF) all offer non prorated upgrades to their warantees through certified contractors.
teddgcm
May 26th, 2008
at 8:28pm
C. Thomas, thanks for the obvious thought you put in to this comment. All of your points are well taken and I’m sure other readers will find them helpful. Thanks again.